eave it to designer Anna Sui to find the beauty in horror—in particular, art-driven ’60s and ’70s foreign horror films, like the 1971 Belgium movie Daughters of Darkness, a surreal Gothic glamor feast of the undead, and the 1964 Italian slasher Blood and Black Lace centered around the violent death of a fashion model and the corrupt fashion house that employed her. But for the hair in her “Gothic Vamp” fall collection, the direction took two different paths altogether: natural downstyles or high-and-mighty victory rolls, made iconic by World War II pin-up girls. Never one to exactly dupe a style, R+Co co-founder Garren created an outsized version of the WWII-era look for some of Sui’s girls, rumpling the texture of his rolls and giving them the commanding height and volume that are signatures of Garren’s styling. “This Gothic Vamp is a 2020 take on a ’40s look,” he says of the newly iconic hairstyle. Here, Garren shares how to get the look.
Hair by Garren
Photographed by Chris Diaz
Separate hair into two sections, front and back, on a center crown parting.
Apply product depending on hair’s texture. For example: Add SKYLINE Dry Shampoo Powder to fine hair to build volume; mist on TROPHY Shine + Texture Spray and SAIL Soft Wave Spray to increase texture in silky hair; and increase shine and smoothness to coarse hair with TWO-WAY MIRROR Smoothing Oil.
Backcomb the front section with a Mason Pearson brush. Roll hair on each side toward the center parting, keeping the rolls loose yet large. Pin into place. Using your fingers, gently finesse the shape of each roll to make it bigger and fit the individual’s feature. Note: Each shape is unique to the wearer.
Lightly tease the bottom section to bring out natural bend and texture.
Pull loose a few pieces from the rolls around the face to play up modern texture.
Finish the look with an all-over mist of OUTER SPACE Flexible Hairspray for hold and support.